These two tools dominate the Alberta market when it comes to hard ice and mixed climbing. Lately, Nomics seem to be in frequent need of repairs or returns, but every person who used Cassin tools loved them and sought them out. Before purchasing new ones, I did look for a used pair but could not find any.
The width also makes for less effort and fewer fractures when swinging. Curved shaft and pick angle — Climbing on tools like the Quarks and Vipers requires you to have a swing that does not feel natural. I had to consciously focus on how I swung my tools to get them to stick. This motion is much more efficient and easy to use when hooking. The curved shaft also allows for more clearance from the ice — and as a result, much less knuckle bashing.
Weight — As a female climber I need to work more on swinging. Because I do not work in construction i. Furthermore, being right handed means that my coordination with my left is not great. I have repeatedly smashed the knuckles on my left hand into the ice while swinging incorrectly, resulting in significant bruising and swelling.
Heavier tools and ones with pick weights eg. Nomics make tools top-heavy and harder to control. The weight of the X-All Mountain tool is more uniform throughout the axe, making it easier to grip and swing than a heavy-headed tool.
Versatility — Have you ever tried climbing grade 2 or 3 with aggressive tools? Swinging down instead of over your head is cumbersome and trying to pull the tool out after is even more so.
The curved shape instead of bent shape of the X-All Mountains allows for climbing on easier ice as well as steeper climbs. Furthermore, I have found that these tools will work mixed climbing without being a mixed specific tool or having a mixed specific pick. This was a big factor in choosing the X-All Mountain vs. The X-Dream are very nice to climb with, but were a bit too aggressive to learn to lead easy ice with. Lastly, the shape of the handle and spike at the bottom of the X-All Mountain makes using it on the approach slopes easy to penetrate snow like with a mountaineering axe.
The X-All Mountain is a much more attractive option when purchasing your first set of tools. This means that when I begin leading steeper ice and become more accomplished on mixed routes…. I will probably buy a set of X-Dreams as they are more aggressive and have three different picks [ice, mixed and competition] available.
Climber, photographer, Scotch aficionado. I climb ice, rock, trees, buildings, whatever: it's all fun! In love with ice, mixed, alpine and drytooling, though I do enjoy the warmer days on rock, too.
I have now gone through two pairs of handles. They get thrashed by approaches in piolet cane , and the cheap plastic comes apart in several places. So for someone who has a couple years following WI4-WI5, and getting into leading, would you recommend this over the x-dream?
That sounds about right — the X-Dream is a superb technical tool, but for learning and climbing mid-grades, something less-aggressive like the X-All will work out better for you. Great write up, and solid advice all around. I love how you talk about the buying process involving trying a bunch of tools out and figuring out the one that works best for you.
I used to tell customers this on the sales floor all the time, and just say that the best thing to do would be to go to an ice festival, demo and swing everything you can, and take notes!
I even climb mixed and harder stuff on top-rope without problems other than my arms screaming at me. My main use is alpine ice and easy to mid grade waterfall ice, and that is certainly their happy place. The handle is now 3 parts that can be assembled in the precise way that fits the terrain being climbed and allows the climber to fine-tune the position of the upper pommel. It also increases mechanical resistance to the specific stresses on each part of the handle.
Everything else about the geometry, balance and weight remain the same. The three-part handle can be configured to fit hand size and the terrain being climbed. The steel spike is big enough to function as a cane and has a hole that is large enough to clip a carabiner for use with lanyards.
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